This article was produced in collaboration with the Catalan Tourism Board
Beyond the media spotlight of the Tour de France Grand Départ in Barcelona, there lies a territory of immense scenic richness. The true essence of Catalan cycling is found in the silence of its secondary roads and the diversity of its geography. These ten routes offer a precise photography of that reality: a collection spread across the entire territory, rooted in a deep-seated local cycling culture. The journey spans from the high Pyrenean peaks to the sinuous coastal curves of the Costa Brava, crossing the demanding climbs of the Pre-Coastal ranges and the quiet, agricultural plains of the interior where the landscape reflects a profound rural tradition. This is an invitation to ride an authentic and unknown Catalonia.
#1 Tramuntana and tarmac: from the Medieval plains to monastic heights
Start / Finish: Castelló d’Empúries
Distance: 109.5km
Elevation gain: 1,257m
Difficulty: Medium
Profile: Rolling with a progressive and steady climb to the French border
More information: www.costabrava.org
From the heart of the Alt Empordà, in the historic medieval town of Castelló d’Empúries, begins one of the most evocative routes in the northeast of the Iberian Peninsula. Between marshlands, vineyards, and mountains that overlook the Mediterranean, this itinerary leads the cyclist through a perfect synthesis of landscape and culture.
The start winds alongside the Parc Natural dels Aiguamolls de l’Empordà, where birdsong accompanies the first gentle kilometres. The terrain invites you to find your rhythm before the road begins to incline inland. Soon, the profile hardens on the way to the mythical Coll de Banyuls, a natural border pass between Catalonia and France.
The climb is somewhat irregular. There are sections with little gradient and even descent, alongside more demanding segments – especially the final 2 km. As you gain altitude, the horizon opens toward the deep blue of the Mediterranean, now on the French side. It is a solitary pass, with untamed character and saline aroma, where every pedal stroke connects the cyclist to centuries of shared history between border peoples. It is a timid and discreet road, ideal for riding without traffic pressure.
Once we summit the Coll de Banyuls, we must turn back and return along the same road, once again to the town of Espolla. We should pay attention during the descent at cattle grids. The descent returns the cyclist toward the Catalan coast and leads, skirting coves and cliffs, from Llançà to the whitewashed port of El Port de la Selva. Though perhaps not fully conscious of it, we will be riding at the birth– or the end, depending on how you look at it – of the Pyrenees. A Pyrenees bathed by the sea, with little height but the same personality. Here the Mediterranean dictates the rhythm. Also the tramuntana, the strong northerly wind that sometimes blows here.
The day culminates with the winding and memorable ascent to the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes. It is a gentle climb, with a constant rhythm and spectacular views over the sea. The descent down the western slope, once again toward Castelló d’Empúries, is via a wide and well-laid road. A comfortable pleasure to conclude this day of Mediterranean cycling.
TIPS
- You can create a detour toward Cadaqués, one of the most picturesque villages in the region, with a Salvador Dalí museum.
- It’s well worth a stop in Peralada, a historic town boasting numerous wineries where you can taste wines from the DO Empordà.
- If you tackle the climb to Sant Pere de Rodes in summer, ensure you carry plenty of water; this ascent can be truly tortuous.
#2 Intimate La Garrotxa: cycling between volcanoes and ancient stone
Start / Finish: Olot
Distance: 70km
Elevation gain: 867m
Difficulty: Low - Medium
Profile: Gentle undulations with short climbs throughout
More information: www.costabrava.org
There are routes that are simply ridden; and there are routes that are discovered. This track, starting and finishing in Olot, belongs firmly to the latter category. In the heart of the volcanic county of La Garrotxa, the tarmac winds between dormant cones and lush beech forests, offering the cyclist a green, damp, and silent Catalonia, very distinct from the typical Mediterranean landscape. An undulating and pleasurable ride that will leave a lasting impression.
From Olot, the discreet capital surrounded by the Garrotxa Volcanic Area Natural Park, the pedalling begins gently, almost ceremonially. The terrain rolls as the road plunges into one of the most unique landscapes in Catalonia: La Fageda d’en Jordà. Riding through this extensive and spectacular beech forest is a sensory experience. The beech trees grow upon ancient, reddish solidified lava, and the light, filtered through branches that spread out like umbrellas, turns the physical effort into something almost emotional.
The route continues towards Mieres, a small and authentic village where time seems to have stood still. The secondary roads are narrow and quiet, perfect for maintaining a steady rhythm and enjoying the undulating profile, without major climbs but with a succession of short, sharp rises. It is ideal terrain for the cyclist who appreciates detail: isolated farmhouses, fields bordered by dry-stone walls, and the distant echo of a cowbell.
After 30km, we arrive at Banyoles, where the landscape seems to open up and we discover the Estany. This is a natural lake of tranquil waters, which has hosted Olympic rowing competitions, but for the cyclist, it is a place to loosen the legs and ride with a fluid cadence. Banyoles could well be the ideal spot for a pause, savouring a good coffee.
The final stretch leads to Besalú, where architectural and historical heritage takes the lead. Crossing its fortified medieval bridge over the river Fluvià is almost a journey back in time. After a few hours of pedalling, the Romanesque silhouette rewards the effort with a scene difficult to forget. The cobbled streets invite you to stop –another coffee?– and enjoy this picturesque village, an special and iconic enclave of medieval Catalan history.
This track does not boast great altitudes or epic figures. Its greatness lies in its diversity: volcanoes, unexpected Atlantic forests, enchanted lakes, rural villages, and medieval heritage all within less than a hundred kilometres.
TIPS
- Lake Banyoles can be circumnavigated via 8km of dirt tracks and bike lanes; a gravel or mountain bike is recommended for this flat, scenic loop.
- The region is famous for its Volcanic Cuisine and Michelin-starred restaurant Les Cols. The local "fesols de Santa Pau" (beans) are a must-try.
- From Castellfollit de la Roca, take a quiet detour via the GIV-5223 climbs to Coll de la Buixeda (1,091m), offering a rewarding and nice ride.
#3 El Berguedà: hardship and heritage
Start: Berga
Finish: Santuari de Queralt (Berga)
Distance: 138.5km
Elevation gain: 3,274m
Difficulty: Hard
Profile: High-mountain day featuring long, back-to-back climbs
More information: www.barcelonaesmoltmes.cat
When the 2024 Volta a Catalunya routed its queen stage through the backroads of the Berguedà, the cycling world rediscovered a treasure that had sat gathering dust for far too long. To the uninitiated, these mountain passes appear hauntingly empty, nearly devoid of cars. Yet, for those in the know, the region is a hive of activity – a sanctuary for local riders seeking brutal gradients and the rare luxury of safety in equal measure.
That afternoon, Tadej Pogačar crossed the line alone, sparking scenes of fervour rarely seen in the century-old history of the Volta. The crowds that lined the tarmac, thick with passion and reverence, confirmed a deeper truth: these roads don’t just host races; they breathe cycling in capital letters.
Our loop begins in Berga, the regional capital, though its circular nature allows for a departure from any point. The route weaves through tiny, charming hamlets and past industrial communes – nineteenth-century factory towns built along the Llobregat river. Still inhabited today, these colonies represent a unique architectural and cultural heritage, standing as silent witnesses to the region’s grit.
The numbers tell the story of the day’s suffering: 138 kilometres and a punishing 3,274 metres of vertical gain. It is a training ground favoured by the likes of Sepp Kuss, a landscape defined by its relentless terrain. The itinerary takes in the Coll de la Batallola, the Collada Sobirana, and the Coll de Fumanya.
After cresting the Tossal de cal Batlló, the journey concludes at the Santuari de Queralt. Before the final descent back to Berga, one must stop at the great mural immortalising Eddy Merckx and Tadej Pogačar. On this very summit, separated by exactly half a century, two of the sport’s greatest icons raised their arms in victory, forever linking the golden age of cycling to the modern era.
TIPS
- When climbing Coll de Fumanya, there’s a sharp detour that offers the chance to tackle the Coll de Pradell (Hors Categorie), a true Catalan giant.
- In the nearby Casserres town, there’s another Eddy Merckx mural worth visiting as homage to the ITT he won in 1975.
- This route allows for multiple variations through a dense network of secondary roads and rural lanes. Take the map and explore!
#4 A loop through the Vallès, a landscape in between
Start / Finish: Moià
Distance: 69.3km
Elevation gain: 1,116m
Difficulty: Medium - Hard
Profile: Rolling terrain, with a succession of short, punchy climbs through quiet secondary roads and lush inland landscapes
More information: www.barcelonaesmoltmes.cat
The Vallès has long been Catalonia’s natural corridor – a broad, undulating expanse caught between the coastal ranges and the first ridgelines that hint at the Pre-Pyrenees. It is a place where the landscape shifts almost imperceptibly: Mediterranean woodland of pines and holm oaks slowly giving way to cooler, shaded slopes that suggest higher ground ahead.
This circular route, starting in Moià, in the Moianès county, traces that in-between territory – a mosaic of secondary roads that serve equally as training ground and escape. It could begin in almost any of the towns it passes through, and it can be ridden in either direction, each offering a subtly different experience. Clockwise, the road drifts towards the Vallès Occidental, leaving behind the open plateau of the Moianès in search of narrower, more enclosed and wooded terrain.
The opening kilometres roll towards Castellterçol over gently undulating roads before tipping into a short, sharp descent towards Sant Feliu de Codines – just enough to wake the legs before the route settles into a more sustained rhythm of climbing. From there, the road links up with the ascent to Gallifa, a local favourite: constant bends, smooth tarmac and dense vegetation that filters the light and draws the rider deeper into the landscape, all the way to Sant Llorenç Savall, one of the natural gateways to the Sant Llorenç del Munt i l’Obac Natural Park.
From here, the ride takes on a different character. After 6 km on the B-124 road, the track goes right by an small road that lifts again towards La Granera – a modest climb on paper, less than 5 kilometres, but with ramps that pitch up to 14% and evoke the punch of the Flemish muurs. At the summit, a 9th-century castle adds a sense of place to the effort. The descent that follows is slightly technical, leading down to Monistrol de Calders along a road lined with towering pines. There is little respite: the climb to Calders comes next, a third-category ascent that carries the quiet echoes of professional racing, having featured at times in both Volta a Catalunya and La Vuelta a España.
Then, the road unwinds back towards Moià, often accompanied by a fresh crosswind that hints at the proximity of the Pre-Pyrenees.
TIPS
- If avoiding the turn-off toward La Granera, continue along the B-124. You’ll discover a very pleasant road heading toward Monistrol.
- A shorter 40km loop can be completed via the road connecting Castellterçol with Granera. Strictly for true puncheurs.
- Along the way, you’ll find few typical Catalan "masies" – traditional farmhouses – converted as restaurants , perfect to refuel and rest.
#5 Maresme to Montseny, from sea to summit
Start / Finish: Mataró
Distance: 147.5km
Elevation gain: 2,587m
Difficulty: Medium - Hard
Profile: High-mountain day featuring long, sustained climbs across the Montseny range
More information: www.barcelonaesmoltmes.cat
There are few places in Europe where you can leave the sea behind and, within less than 30 kilometres, find yourself deep in high mountain terrain. The Montseny massif rises abruptly from the Mediterranean, its wooded slopes climbing towards the summit of Turó de l’Home at 1,706 metres – a landmark that has shaped generations of Catalan cyclists.
This is a route built for endurance riders. Long, demanding and deeply rewarding, it strings together some of the most iconic climbs in the region, drawing a line from the coastal roads of the Maresme to the shaded forests of Montseny and back again.
Rolling out from Mataró, the road gradually leaves the coastline behind, passing through Arenys de Munt and climbing gently towards Collsacreu before drifting inland to Vallgorguina and Santa Maria de Palautordera. It is here that the first major ascent begins as we enter the Natural Park of Monseny: Collformic (1,143m), approached from the southern side. Nearly 20 kilometres of steady climbing at around 5–6%, a road that flows through dense woodland and invites a smooth, rhythmic pace.
As the elevation builds, the landscape opens up. To the right, the silhouette of Matagalls – one of the most beloved peaks in Catalonia – emerges between the trees. Higher still, the air cools and the forest thickens, until the road finally crests the pass and tips into a long descent towards Seva, a town with deep roots in motocross culture.
There is little time to switch off. From Seva, the route undulates towards Viladrau – a village that is closely linked to water thanks to the almost 200 springs that are found in the municipality – before rising again into a second sequence of climbs with Coll de Bordoriol, Coll de Can Marçal and the approach to Santa Fe del Montseny, at 1,303m. The gradients here are irregular, the effort more fragmented, but the reward is the same: riding through one of the most distinctive natural environments in Catalonia, where chestnut forests and shaded valleys create a sense of quiet isolation.
What follows is a long, sweeping descent of nearly 25 kilometres, technical enough to demand focus but fluid enough to enjoy every corner. From the cool mountain air, the road gradually returns to the warmth of the coast, where the final kilometres unfold along the Mediterranean Sea.
TIPS
- From Santa Fe del Montseny, a small detour leads to Turó de l’Home, the highest point of the massif, for those looking to add more elevation.
- Mataró and Arenys de Mar, on the coast offer excellent seafood and seafront terraces, perfect for a post-ride stop.
- The Montseny area also features a vast network of gravel tracks and MTB trails for further exploration. Give it a try!
#6 Costa Daurada: from the sea to the ghostly heights of La Mussara
Start / Finish: Cambrils
Distance: 91.7km
Elevation gain: 1,444m
Difficulty: Medium - Hard
Profile: A contrast between sea and summit, featuring long, sustained climbs
More information: www.costadaurada.info
This circular loop is defined by a striking contrast between the azure of the coast, the limestone of the high mountains and the warm weather from the South of Catalonia. The profile demands a medium to high level of physical conditioning to conquer its long, sustained climbs.
The opening kilometres from coastal Cambrils towards Montbrió del Camp and Riudecanyes are fast-flowing and smooth, rolling gently through groves of hazelnut and olive trees – the hallmark landscape of the Baix Camp region. Upon reaching the Riudecanyes reservoir, the air cools and the scenery sharpens, offering a more picturesque environment as the road begins to tilt upwards.
From Duesaigües, the character of the ride shifts dramtically. The steady ascent towards the Coll de la Teixeta begins here, a sustained effort that signals the entrance into more demanding, alpine territory. From the summit, a descent drops you into the prestigious Priorat region, famous for its steep vineyards, before you face a classic “trencacames” or leg-breaking profile on the way to Porrera. This sector is a relentless mix of long drags and punchy ramps that test a rider's rhythm. It's harder than it seems.
Returning to the Baix Camp county, the Coll d’Alforja and the Coll dels Castillejos represent the most technical and punishing points of the day. Here, the gradients grow steeper and the hairpins more frequent, requiring careful pacing and a disciplined output. Reaching the ghostly, deserted village of La Mussara is the crowning moment of the route. Perched within the Prades Mountains, the summit offers expansive, ethereal views that seem to hang between the earth and the sky. From this high point, the descent towards Vilaplana is fast and technical, demanding total focus on every apex.
The final run home through L’Aleixar, Maspujols, and Riudoms sees the terrain soften into a gentler, undulating roll. These closing kilometres back to Cambrils provide the perfect excuse to indulge in the local gastronomy, from traditional romesco sauce and grilled meats to artisan coques. In its entirety, this is a complete and varied journey – a true cycling tapestry woven through the Baix Camp, the Priorat, and the Prades Mountains.
TIPS
- At 39km, a turn toward Cornudella de Montsant leads to Siurana, a short but punishing climb crowned by a 9th-century Moorish castle.
- The Prades Mountains have their microclimate; even in summer, at the summit can be 8°C lower than at the coast.
- To soften the route, go straight at Coll d’Alforja along the C-242; this offers a gentle descent toward the coast via Les Borges del Camp.
#7 Terres de Lleida’s loop: a colour for every season
Start / Finish: Tàrrega
Distance: 99.5km
Elevation gain: 801m
Difficulty: Medium
Profile: For rouleurs, with gentle undulating sections
More information: www.aralleida.cat
Starting and ending in Tàrrega, this circular route weaves through the shifting landscapes of the Urgell, Segarra, and Pla d’Urgell regions. These areas are situated in the rural interior of Catalonia, away from the coastal bustle, and are defined by a deeply rooted agricultural and rural tradition. This heritage gives the region a distinct personality, making a journey by bicycle feel like a truly immersive experience. Here, the landscape changes over the year as the colours of the fields shift dramatically from the vibrant greens of spring to the scorched golds of the harvest. Also it traverses four protected natural areas, from the bird-filled serenity of Estany d'Ivars to the rugged beauty of Secans de Belianes-Preixana, Granyena, and Obagues del Riu Corb.
The opening kilometres towards Verdú are smooth and fast-rolling, perfect for shedding the pace of daily life as the horizon opens up across vineyards and cereal fields. Verdú itself invites a brief hiatus; between the silhouette of its castle and the scent of local produce, it is difficult to pass through without stopping.
The road continues towards Montornès and Montoliu de Segarra, where rural silence and empty lanes make for an effortless riding experience. Soon, Guimerà appears like a vision from another era, its cobbled streets climbing steeply towards the medieval church and castle Heading towards Vallbona de les Monges, the terrain grows more demanding with moderate gradients. Upon reaching the village, and before pushing on towards Llorenç de Rocafort, there is an opportunity to visit the Cistercian monastery. The landscape between Llorenç and Maldà is the quintessential expression of the Ponent drylands, a mosaic of cereal crops, almond trees, and olive groves framed by ancient dry-stone walls. This sector is defined by its gently rolling orography.
At Belianes and the surrounding drylands of Belianes-Preixana, the route becomes more arid. These sections are often exposed to the wind, requiring a steady hand and disciplined pacing. Bellpuig then emerges as a sanctuary to recover and refuel, ideally with the local gastronomy.
The final leg traverses the Pla d’Urgell to Ivars d’Urgell, where the Estany d’Ivars i Vilasana lake appears as a pocket of serenity. This natural lagoon is a place to pause, take in the wildlife, and enjoy the calming vistas. From Anglesola and Vilagrassa, the terrain remains gentle until you return once more to Tàrrega, completing a ride that is as varied as it is culturally rich.
TIPS
- Bring a lock for a brief cultural hiatus; the medieval streets of Guimerà and the monastery of Vallbona de les Monges are essential stops.
- Expect a dramatic seasonal shift from vibrant spring greens to scorched summer golds, but beware of the thick winter fogs.
- Consider splitting the route into two stages to enjoy the rural guest-houses, the natural surroundings, and the great local olive oil.
#8 Terres de l’Ebre: long journey between flamingos and rice fields
Start / Finish: Amposta
Distance: 112.5km
Elevation gain: 673m
Difficulty: Low
Profile: Almost all flat with soft climbs
More information: www.terresdelebre.travel
Setting out from Amposta, this route offers a comprehensive cycling experience between the Delta de l’Ebre – a vast, triangular wetland formed where the Ebre river meets the sea– and the Montsià area interior, blending natural wonder with local heritage and varied terrain. The loop features a largely flat profile with only gentle rises towards the end, placing it in the medium-to-low difficulty category. This is a landscape where the lack of vertical gain is compensated for by the sheer vastness of the horizon and the sensory immersion of the wetlands and its rich biodiversity.
The initial kilometres towards Sant Jaume d’Enveja and Els Muntells follow flat roads through a vast patchwork of rice paddies, defined by the immense, open horizons that characterise Delta de l’Ebre territory. Here, the light reflects off the flooded fields like a mirror, and it is common to spot flamingos and herons rising from the reeds as you pass. As you reach the Eucaliptus area and Poblenou del Delta, the air grows heavy with salt and the landscape turns increasingly coastal, defined by long, exposed straights where the wind becomes the primary arbiter of effort.
The journey continues through La Ràpita, Montsià Mar, and Les Cases d’Alcanar, offering constant Mediterranean views that are ideal for a gastronomic pause to sample the local shellfish and world-renowned rice dishes. From Alcanar, the character of the ride shifts as the road turns inland, leaving the sea spray behind to thread through the rugged, sun-baked foothills of the Montsià.
The transition from Ulldecona to Godall presents the day’s singular mountain challenge: the Port de les Bruixes. Climbing through the Serra de Godall, this 3.8km ascent with a gentle average gradient of 3.6% serves as a scenic gateway to the interior. Passing through Godall, La Galera, and Mas de Barberans, the route reveals the traditional architecture and stone-carved heritage of the region, where the pace of life feels dictated by the ancient olive groves, fruit trees, and the dry-stone walls. The riding here becomes more rhythmic, with subtle undulations that test the legs after the flat delta plains. The return to Amposta via Santa Bàrbara completes a balanced and accessible loop, offering a rich cycling experience and a deep dive into these resilient villages and profound rural traditions of the south.
TIPS
- Make sure to stop at the Mirador de les Borretes along the Alcanar road for a spectacular panoramic view of the Mediterranean coastline.
- Via the town of Roquetes, you can access one of the great Catalan giants: Mont Caro (1,436m), a climb of 22.6km at 6.31%
- Pack a swimsuit to enjoy a dip at the Trabucador Beach, a thin strip of sand that offers an iconic and serene landscape in the Delta.
#9 Val d’Aran: borders, forests and wild water from Vielha
Start / Finish: Vielha
Distance: 87.2km
Elevation gain: 2,344m
Difficulty: High
Profile: Pyrenean pass route featuring long climbs through deep valleys and panoramic summit views
More information: www.visitvaldaran.com
In the most Atlantic extremity of the Catalan Pyrenees, where Catalonia flows into France, lies the Val d’Aran county and its capital, Vielha. The starting and finishing point of this high-mountain loop, the capital of this Pyrenean valley offers that perfect balance between comfortable logistics and untamed landscape that seduces the cyclist seeking authenticity. This is a journey for prepared riders.
This is a land with a fierce and singular personality, defined by its own culture and its own tongue: Aranese. With its deep Occitan roots, the language hums through the villages, making a journey here feel like a passage into a distinct mountain realm. From Vielha, the ride begins with a gentle drift along the Garonne, the only Catalan river to meet the Atlantic, before the road tilts upwards for the first conquest: Eth Portilhon. This pass seduces with its dense beech forests and a border-town mystique. For 9km, the constant 8% gradient traces the same ramps tamed by the Tour de France.
The route then plunges into the valley’s more rural secrets towards Bassa d’Arres. Here, the landscape grows wilder and the road narrows significantly. It is an irregular, 12km climb that forces a constant dance with the gears, eventually revealing a hidden alpine lake surrounded by conifers. It is a collector's jewel, a place to fill a bottle at a mountain spring and remember that cycling is as much about contemplation as it is about effort.
The final act leads to the spectacular enclave of Saut deth Pish. This ascent through the Barradós valley is arguably the day’s most arduous challenge – 11km of rugged terrain where the averages often hit 13%. It is high mountain territory, almost hostile to the road bike, but the reward is cathartic: a powerful, wild waterfall that breaks the mineral calm of the summit.
This loop does not rely on famous Alpine names or easy statistics. Its greatness lies in its purity: Atlantic watersheds, ancient forests, hidden cascades, and quiet, borderland roads. For the rider who has already ticked off the famous colossi and seeks something more intimate, the Val d’Aran offers the profound satisfaction of exploring a genuine corner of the Pyrenees on two wheels.
TIPS
- When passing through Vilamós, take the gravel track of 4km to Saut deth Pish waterfall for a lovely shortcut.
- Eth Portilhon is a storied Tour de France climb where each hairpin pays tribute to a Spanish stage winner of the Grande Boucle.
- The Val d’Aran’s Atlantic climate brings unpredictable rain, making a lightweight, packable waterproof jacket a mandatory item.
#10 Grand tour of the Alt Urgell and Pallars Sobirà
Start / Finish: La Seu d’Urgell
Distance: 164.9km
Elevation gain: 3,451m
Difficulty: High
Profile: Major Pyrenean crossing featuring long climbs and remote roads
More information: www.aralleida.cat
Starting and finishing in La Seu d’Urgell, this 165km route is a true cycling challenge – not only due to distance and elevation, but also because of the stretches of sterrato that demand careful handling to connect the Pyrenean counties of the Alt Urgell and Pallars Sobirà counties.
La Seu d’Urgell is a small mountain town in the heart of the Catalan Pyrenees. This town breathes cycling. Just a few kilometres from the Andorran border, it has become a meeting point and training hub for professional cyclists from around the world. It is estimated that around 150 pros currently reside in Andorra. Quiet cafés, medieval streets, and the silhouette of the Cathedral of Santa Maria silently watching as cyclists weave through its lanes and roads.
The start is pleasant and fast-paced. About 13km of gently descending terrain, following the course of the Segre River. At this point, we begin a little-known ascent through the Valls d’Aguilar towards La Guardia d’Ares, Taús, and Els Castells. It will be 23km of climbing on a secondary road, with almost no traffic, interspersed with occasional flat sections and 1,000 metres of positive elevation to conquer. This pass is pure visual spectacle.
Once we summit Els Castells, we face a 10 km section of sterrato, mostly on a well-compacted dirt track. This is the challenge and the spicy highlight of the day. It is an isolated, inhospitable, and sparsely populated environment, as if we must ask permission to enter. The reward is a panoramic display of views as we transition from one county to another and from one valley to the next. The descent to Gerri de la Sal is rapid and sinuous, once again on a secondary route perfectly integrated into the landscape. It is a solitary and adventurous territory.
From Gerri de la Sal, we follow the main road north to the gates of Sort, the county capital and one of the entrances to the high Pyrenees. Here, we begin a loop to Enviny before returning to Sort in 20km with an additional 500 metres of climbing. This is surely the moment to eat and replenish our strength to tackle the final 60km and over 1,000 metres of climbing that remain. An alternative, traffic-free road once again brings us almost halfway up the long and sweeping Port del Cantó (1,721m).
Upon summiting, we re-enter the Alt Urgell county. From the Coll del Cantó to La Seu, everything is easy: negative elevation, good tarmac, and the reward of having lived this lunga giornata of exploration and discovery.
TIPS
- Located very close to Sort is the Port Ainé ski station (1,978m), a genuine climb of the Catalan Pyrenees: 18km at 6.6%.
- The medieval salt pans of Gerri de la Sal are a unique historical stop; take a moment to see the Romanesque monastery of Santa Maria.
- The area is a maze of tiny lanes that often transition into dirt tracks, making a gravel bike the ideal choice for this ride.
