Success stories in the cycling industry in the 2020s can be few and far between, but while Rapha’s travails have been widely reported, fellow British apparel brand Kostüme appears to be bucking the trend, reporting just under 200% growth last year. On January 30, the brand launched a Crowdcube funding campaign with a target of £100,000, which founder and CEO Ed Bartlett (pictured below) says will enable Kostüme to “accelerate a number of key areas of our growth strategy, including finalising our winter insulated range, introducing direct fulfilment for EU customers, plus important circularity initiatives including repairs and a take-back scheme.” At the time of writing (January 31), the Crowdcube target has already been met and has gone into overfunding.
Even more remarkable about Kostüme’s growth is that the brand says its success is all down to product reviews and word of mouth, and that to date, it hasn’t used paid advertising or performance marketing. Kostüme officially launched at Rouleur Live in 2022, so of course, we were first with reviews in advance of the show. Rachel Jary said in her review of its women’s kit: “Overall, the jersey looked good and, perhaps most importantly, made me feel good too. Not only due to the unique pattern, well-designed cut and breathability, but also because I could rest easy that it had been produced ethically and with environmental concerns at the forefront through the entire production process.” Rachel concluded: “Add in the huge efforts that the brand is making to reduce its impact on the environment and I’m further convinced that Kostüme could quickly grow in popularity in the cycling apparel industry.”
It’s this focus on quality and sustainability that has driven its remarkable growth, according to Kostüme, in a unique approach: “Our small batch pre-order model means only products that are already sold get manufactured, effectively eliminating the overstocking, discounting and high volume of returns that have plagued the industry in recent years. Cutting this waste not only means a dramatic reduction in its environmental impact, it also allows Kostüme to spend significantly more on the final specification of its products without passing the extra cost onto the consumer.”
In other words, Kostüme only makes what it has already sold and it claims that because of this, it is able to spend up to three times more on the specification of its products. It says it only works with socially and environmentally responsible nearshore manufacturers, currently in Italy and Romania. Both factories are several decades old, family owned and run with an ESG commitment, including investment in solar panels and light wells for natural light. Kostüme says it applies these criteria to material sourcing wherever possible, too.
Each Kostüme batch or ‘edit’ is designed in collaboration with an artist or themed around seasons, events, places (or even other brands) and is made in small batches of 350. Pre-orders are then taken, closing after 10 days or when the edit sells out. #Edit001, which Rachel Jary reviewed, was designed by UK op-art duo Kai & Sunny, known for their hand-painted line work. The pattern used in #Edit001, Dawn Wave, was “created to echo the energy, colours and movement experienced while cycling”. Meanwhile, the most recent #Edit003, now archived, featured exclusive artwork by London-based multi-disciplinary contemporary artist Remi Rough, a proponent in the graffuturism and post-graffiti movements. Kostüme describes it on its website as “highly sensory colour [that] evokes an array of different feelings for the viewer and can at times be perceived as musical due to the vibrational energy the work emits”.
Kostüme only sells direct from www.kostume.cc or at pop-up events, explaining that selling direct allows it to keep the quality high, not the prices.
The brand says it has already secured backing from the ex-chairman of Wiggle, and for its latest Crowdcube campaign offers ‘money can’t buy’ rewards to backers, from sustainably made stickers and patches, to limited art prints, exclusive investor events, and the chance to have a one-off jersey made from your own design.
Kostüme founder Bartlett calls himself on LinkedIn an “early trailblazer of the London pop-up art gallery scene”, curating and producing exhibitions and projects for his own independent art platform, The Future Tense, as well as for collaborations with other brands. His career began in the video game industry, where he founded Hive Partners in 2003 and in-game ad network IGA Worldwide in 2005. Kostüme, he says, “combined my passions for sustainability, cycling, art and fashion into a groundbreaking new business model.”
If you want to back Kostüme (investments from £200) go to Crowdcube’s website for the details.
